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180pimp

How to reach 200kw red top sr20

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Hey guys I'm getting a 180sx red top sr 5 spd manual on the road and looking at future mods just wondering what mods I have to do to see around the 200kwatw safely/daily. My other 180 (red top sr as well) 5spd man has the following bigger fuel pump, fmic, 3 inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, 550cc injectors, Hks rr fpr, port and polish,t28, haltech e8' high boost set at about 1 bar, hd clutch I think that's it and only see 150kw atw any advice would be appreciated

Cheers dan

Edited by 180pimp

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change tuner. what you have should be making (or damn close to) 200rwkw

 

you can get 150rwkw with just a cooler/exhaust and the boost wound up a bit

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change tuner. what you have should be making (or damn close to) 200rwkw

 

you can get 150rwkw with just a cooler/exhaust and the boost wound up a bit

 

Thanks mate that was the 2nd tuner 1st one made 160kw yay :( who's a decent tuner round Brisbane/gold coast I was thinking of goin to chip torque funny about who I use have been ripped off with mechanical work before

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a copy & paste answer I saved to answer the many many many many people asking the same question: ( mainly put here for other searching the same question you asked )

OP in your case you could be getting read outs from a low reading dyno or just using super safe tuner who tunes with a less efficient map settings.

 

the recipe for 200kw out of a S13 SR20 for the least amount of money is this:

 

T28 S15 turbo - $450

Any front mounted intercooler - $400

S15 injectors - $250

Walbro 255l fuel pump (bosche 040 is fine too but more expensive) - $170

Full 3" Exhaust - $800 - $2000

POD Filter - $40

Reflashed ECU - Standard S13 is fine - $800

Z32 AFM - $280 second hand.

 

Standard BOV is fine

Standard Cams and head are fine

Standard Fuel Pressure regulator is fine

Standard Clutch and gear box is fine unless already worn.

Standard ignition and coil packs are fine.

Edited by datsun180

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a copy & paste answer I saved to answer the many many many many people asking the same question: ( mainly put here for other searching the same question you asked )

OP in your case you could be getting read outs from a low reading dyno or just using super safe tuner who tunes with a less efficient map settings.

 

the recipe for 200kw out of a S13 SR20 for the least amount of money is this:

 

T28 S15 turbo - $450

Any front mounted intercooler - $400

S15 injectors - $250

Walbro 255l fuel pump (bosche 040 is fine too but more expensive) - $170

Full 3" Exhaust - $800 - $2000

POD Filter - $40

Reflashed ECU - Standard S13 is fine - $800

Z32 AFM - $280 second hand.

 

Standard BOV is fine

Standard Cams and head are fine

Standard Fuel Pressure regulator is fine

Standard Clutch and gear box is fine unless already worn.

Standard ignition and coil packs are fine.

 

I have most of these fitted to my newly bought 180, it has had a rebuild with forged pistons, balanced flywheel and crankshaft etc.

im running a t28 as well at stock boost can anyone recommend what boost is safe to put it to if I get a greddy boost controller?

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Datsun 180, not a bad list, but yeah, you have missed the boost controller and recomended boost to achieve the 200ish kw. With those sort of fairly common mods you could damn near get an off the shelf reflash/chip for a little less than the $800 you suggested yes/no?

Edited by Moneypit

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I've seen at least three sr20det motors run 200 kw with the above and stock ecu and a basic T boost set at what ever was still safe afr on the dyno. (usually no more than 16psi ). One was a s14 with vct though so makes a little difference there.

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I was in the same boat as you mate. T28 bb, fmic, bosch 040 pump, gkteck dump and front pipe, 3inch cat etc

 

Took it to chasers for a power run and did 137.6kw hahaha ..

 

issues i had were:

 

dipstick will pop out squirting oil all over the place

 

All this started when i took it for a service a month after i bought it. It ran good till that day. After the minor service, lost heaps of power, turbo wasnt spooling as it used to, it was also lagging on 1st and 2nd gear, backfiring alot. Smoke will come out when going past 5000rpms which causes the dipstick to pop. Thats when i took it to chasers.

 

1st run did 98.7 kw

then 125kw

final was 137.6

 

all on standard boost(7psi) and standard injectors and ecu.

 

Took out engine and found shaft play as well as crack inside the turbo.

 

Now im running t2871r .64 ($1280 new from kudos)

bosch 040 ($210 just jap)

Nismo 740cc ($620 cdauto)

New pcv valve and cusco catch can( $95 jdm obsessions)(fixed the dipstick popping out)

Tomei expreme manifold ($800 kudos)

z32 afm + tomei plug ($288 kudos)

Custom air intake to suit afm ($185 forced motorworx)

Nistune plus run including cold start($850 chasers)

Eboost Street ($390 ebay lol but brand new)

Exedy HD clutch ($549 - kudos)

 

Tune is in two weeks but hopefully should make 220kw

 

This list only includes the main parts, you also end up changing small stuff along the way.

 

New 52mm radiator + shround + twin thermo fans = $250

 

Almost 8 grand on this including labour :(

 

Dont forget, all parts i used were brand new and genuine. You can always go second hand.

 

Good luck mate

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Im making 188kw on 15psi with the following

 

- Apexi power fc

- T28 bb turbo of an s14

- 550cc injectors

- Vl turbo fuel pump

- Fmic

- 3" straight through exhaust

- Z32 afm

 

Take it to rick at CMR performance he does a f**king awesome job. I was so surpised how well my s13 went after taking it there so responsive and so much fun!!

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I've seen at least three sr20det motors run 200 kw with the above and stock ecu and a basic T boost set at what ever was still safe afr on the dyno. (usually no more than 16psi ). One was a s14 with vct though so makes a little difference there.

 

 

the S14 must of had s15 injectors though.. otherwise the duty cycle over 100% or had a RR fuel reg in it.. and a good pump..

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I was in the same boat as you mate. T28 bb, fmic, bosch 040 pump, gkteck dump and front pipe, 3inch cat etc

 

Took it to chasers for a power run and did 137.6kw hahaha ..

 

issues i had were:

 

dipstick will pop out squirting oil all over the place

 

All this started when i took it for a service a month after i bought it. It ran good till that day. After the minor service, lost heaps of power, turbo wasnt spooling as it used to, it was also lagging on 1st and 2nd gear, backfiring alot. Smoke will come out when going past 5000rpms which causes the dipstick to pop. Thats when i took it to chasers.

 

1st run did 98.7 kw

then 125kw

final was 137.6

 

all on standard boost(7psi) and standard injectors and ecu.

 

Took out engine and found shaft play as well as crack inside the turbo.

 

Now im running t2871r .64 ($1280 new from kudos)

bosch 040 ($210 just jap)

Nismo 740cc ($620 cdauto)

New pcv valve and cusco catch can( $95 jdm obsessions)(fixed the dipstick popping out)

Tomei expreme manifold ($800 kudos)

z32 afm + tomei plug ($288 kudos)

Custom air intake to suit afm ($185 forced motorworx)

Nistune plus run including cold start($850 chasers)

Eboost Street ($390 ebay lol but brand new)

Exedy HD clutch ($549 - kudos)

 

Tune is in two weeks but hopefully should make 220kw

 

This list only includes the main parts, you also end up changing small stuff along the way.

 

New 52mm radiator + shround + twin thermo fans = $250

 

Almost 8 grand on this including labour :(

 

Dont forget, all parts i used were brand new and genuine. You can always go second hand.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

FK man 8K for 220kw.. I'd be wanting a little bit better than that.. especially the selection on the 2871.. for 8K there is so much more better setups out there..

Edited by chris2712au

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I was in the same boat as you mate. T28 bb, fmic, bosch 040 pump, gkteck dump and front pipe, 3inch cat etc

 

Took it to chasers for a power run and did 137.6kw hahaha ..

 

issues i had were:

 

dipstick will pop out squirting oil all over the place

 

All this started when i took it for a service a month after i bought it. It ran good till that day. After the minor service, lost heaps of power, turbo wasnt spooling as it used to, it was also lagging on 1st and 2nd gear, backfiring alot. Smoke will come out when going past 5000rpms which causes the dipstick to pop. Thats when i took it to chasers.

 

1st run did 98.7 kw

then 125kw

final was 137.6

 

all on standard boost(7psi) and standard injectors and ecu.

 

Took out engine and found shaft play as well as crack inside the turbo.

 

Now im running t2871r .64 ($1280 new from kudos)

bosch 040 ($210 just jap)

Nismo 740cc ($620 cdauto)

New pcv valve and cusco catch can( $95 jdm obsessions)(fixed the dipstick popping out)

Tomei expreme manifold ($800 kudos)

z32 afm + tomei plug ($288 kudos)

Custom air intake to suit afm ($185 forced motorworx)

Nistune plus run including cold start($850 chasers)

Eboost Street ($390 ebay lol but brand new)

Exedy HD clutch ($549 - kudos)

 

Tune is in two weeks but hopefully should make 220kw

 

This list only includes the main parts, you also end up changing small stuff along the way.

 

New 52mm radiator + shround + twin thermo fans = $250

 

Almost 8 grand on this including labour :(

 

Dont forget, all parts i used were brand new and genuine. You can always go second hand.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

FK man 8K for 220kw.. I'd be wanting a little bit better than that.. especially the selection on the 2871.. for 8K there is so much more better setups out there..

 

 

Think Spending 8 k is bad for that power? I've sunk over 30grand for 150kw haha. Thanks for the input guys it's gives me some different paths to take

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I was in the same boat as you mate. T28 bb, fmic, bosch 040 pump, gkteck dump and front pipe, 3inch cat etc

 

Took it to chasers for a power run and did 137.6kw hahaha ..

 

issues i had were:

 

dipstick will pop out squirting oil all over the place

 

All this started when i took it for a service a month after i bought it. It ran good till that day. After the minor service, lost heaps of power, turbo wasnt spooling as it used to, it was also lagging on 1st and 2nd gear, backfiring alot. Smoke will come out when going past 5000rpms which causes the dipstick to pop. Thats when i took it to chasers.

 

1st run did 98.7 kw

then 125kw

final was 137.6

 

all on standard boost(7psi) and standard injectors and ecu.

 

Took out engine and found shaft play as well as crack inside the turbo.

 

Now im running t2871r .64 ($1280 new from kudos)

bosch 040 ($210 just jap)

Nismo 740cc ($620 cdauto)

New pcv valve and cusco catch can( $95 jdm obsessions)(fixed the dipstick popping out)

Tomei expreme manifold ($800 kudos)

z32 afm + tomei plug ($288 kudos)

Custom air intake to suit afm ($185 forced motorworx)

Nistune plus run including cold start($850 chasers)

Eboost Street ($390 ebay lol but brand new)

Exedy HD clutch ($549 - kudos)

 

Tune is in two weeks but hopefully should make 220kw

 

This list only includes the main parts, you also end up changing small stuff along the way.

 

New 52mm radiator + shround + twin thermo fans = $250

 

Almost 8 grand on this including labour :(

 

Dont forget, all parts i used were brand new and genuine. You can always go second hand.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

 

You should learn how to bolt all this stuff on yourself. Its easy. You can save a fortune by bolting on your new turbo yourself, mounting your own FMIC, putting in a fuel pump etc. Its not difficult and this is coming from someone who isn't that technically minded. I mean fair enough if you got money to burn and you want to pay someone to do it but personally I think its high way robbery. I was even going to install my own cams but decided to leave that to the pros. But everything else I have done myself by just doing research on this website and other SR20det forums. There is heaps of tutorials out there on the web for this stuff.

Edited by s15rocket

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I was in the same boat as you mate. T28 bb, fmic, bosch 040 pump, gkteck dump and front pipe, 3inch cat etc

 

Took it to chasers for a power run and did 137.6kw hahaha ..

 

issues i had were:

 

dipstick will pop out squirting oil all over the place

 

All this started when i took it for a service a month after i bought it. It ran good till that day. After the minor service, lost heaps of power, turbo wasnt spooling as it used to, it was also lagging on 1st and 2nd gear, backfiring alot. Smoke will come out when going past 5000rpms which causes the dipstick to pop. Thats when i took it to chasers.

 

1st run did 98.7 kw

then 125kw

final was 137.6

 

all on standard boost(7psi) and standard injectors and ecu.

 

Took out engine and found shaft play as well as crack inside the turbo.

 

Now im running t2871r .64 ($1280 new from kudos)

bosch 040 ($210 just jap)

Nismo 740cc ($620 cdauto)

New pcv valve and cusco catch can( $95 jdm obsessions)(fixed the dipstick popping out)

Tomei expreme manifold ($800 kudos)

z32 afm + tomei plug ($288 kudos)

Custom air intake to suit afm ($185 forced motorworx)

Nistune plus run including cold start($850 chasers)

Eboost Street ($390 ebay lol but brand new)

Exedy HD clutch ($549 - kudos)

 

Tune is in two weeks but hopefully should make 220kw

 

This list only includes the main parts, you also end up changing small stuff along the way.

 

New 52mm radiator + shround + twin thermo fans = $250

 

Almost 8 grand on this including labour :(

 

Dont forget, all parts i used were brand new and genuine. You can always go second hand.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

 

You should learn how to bolt all this stuff on yourself. Its easy. You can save a fortune by bolting on your new turbo yourself, mounting your own FMIC, putting in a fuel pump etc. Its not difficult and this is coming from someone who isn't that technically minded. I mean fair enough if you got money to burn and you want to pay someone to do it but personally I think its high way robbery. I was even going to install my own cams but decided to leave that to the pros. But everything else I have done myself by just doing research on this website and other SR20det forums. There is heaps of tutorials out there on the web for this stuff.

 

I hear you mate since being ripped off I've been trying to as much work myself/mates help as I can also forgot to mention I have Hks fpr

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the black smoke is running rich.. very normal for a stock tune thats boosted a little bit.. the dipstick popping out normally is from some dipstick blocking up the PCV hoses or not knowing how to plumb a catch can in properly..

 

140rwkw is roughly about correct with stockish boost..

 

IMHO you should of saved some more coin.. and gone GTX.. and some cams.. and tried to do as much of the work yourself as most of the shiz you have bought is just bolt on stuff anyway..

 

the thermos will be an expensive install as nistune cant do it.. and a seperate controller will be needed..

 

I'd do everything except the electricals.. the car will still be driveable then when you get to chasers let them do AFM, injectors and nistune and away you go..

 

but cmon.. thermo's for a 200kw setup.. you are maybe saving 5-10hp at the most ~ and spending alot..

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I'm all for DIY, and I'll never pay someone to do something I can learn to do myself, but I've bought a car with blown turbo/trashed motor, and finding 3/4 bolts being loose, all the turbo lines being FULL of plumbers tape (and loose fittings anyway)... Sump is full of tape, metal shavings, and paint flakes, due to gung ho DIY with no common sense or forethought. I'm not saying pay $3K in labour, but have a think first and be patient!

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I hear you guys but like I said before, everything was brand new and genuine and that is not cheap. This also including lots of parts that I upgraded that I didn't mention. Changed all belts, pulleys, replaced all hoses and heaps more. Taking it to a mechanic was the best option for me because I dont have the time, tools and knowledge of what to do and on top of that, it is my daily so can't really take my time. Labor cost me $1300.

 

$600 for pulling out engine, take out old clutch and put new one in, machine flywheel, gear selector was leaking so re seal that one.

 

$500 was for fitting manifold, turbo, braided lines, injectors, radiator and wire thermo fans. Wire the just jap gauges combo. Also he supplied and fitted catch can. Put new pulley kit, change seals, all belts replaced. I'm sure there's more.

 

I think labor was fairly cheap. Parts are the one that killed me. I think I'd rather spend the extra cash and get new turbo and stuff rather then second which usually are $200 cheaper :/

 

 

 

 

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I'm all for DIY, and I'll never pay someone to do something I can learn to do myself, but I've bought a car with blown turbo/trashed motor, and finding 3/4 bolts being loose, all the turbo lines being FULL of plumbers tape (and loose fittings anyway)... Sump is full of tape, metal shavings, and paint flakes, due to gung ho DIY with no common sense or forethought. I'm not saying pay $3K in labour, but have a think first and be patient!

 

Well it depends on the individual. Frankly, some people are just careless slobs and really don't give a damn and they are like that with EVERYTHING in life. They just put on tape on everything and expect it to last. But I'm a pretty thorough individual and never do things half assed if I can help it. But if you're not going to do the proper research and do a good job then perhaps a mechanic is a better option.

I hear you guys but like I said before, everything was brand new and genuine and that is not cheap. This also including lots of parts that I upgraded that I didn't mention. Changed all belts, pulleys, replaced all hoses and heaps more. Taking it to a mechanic was the best option for me because I dont have the time, tools and knowledge of what to do and on top of that, it is my daily so can't really take my time. Labor cost me $1300.

 

$600 for pulling out engine, take out old clutch and put new one in, machine flywheel, gear selector was leaking so re seal that one.

 

$500 was for fitting manifold, turbo, braided lines, injectors, radiator and wire thermo fans. Wire the just jap gauges combo. Also he supplied and fitted catch can. Put new pulley kit, change seals, all belts replaced. I'm sure there's more.

 

I think labor was fairly cheap. Parts are the one that killed me. I think I'd rather spend the extra cash and get new turbo and stuff rather then second which usually are $200 cheaper :/

 

 

You don't need a lot of tools. A 10mm socket pretty much undoes every important bolt on a silvia. But yeah if you don't have the time and need a lot of work done then yeah sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and fork over the cash and let a mechanic do it, especially if its your daily ride. My s15 isn't a daily so I guess that does give me more time to do stuff coz I can just jump in my other car when its off the road.

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You don't need a lot of tools. A 10mm socket pretty much undoes every important bolt on a silvia. But yeah if you don't have the time and need a lot of work done then yeah sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and fork over the cash and let a mechanic do it, especially if its your daily ride. My s15 isn't a daily so I guess that does give me more time to do stuff coz I can just jump in my other car when its off the road.

 

10mm socket wont even do a basic service... unless you are talking about a socket set... LMAO

Edited by chris2712au

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You don't need a lot of tools. A 10mm socket pretty much undoes every important bolt on a silvia. But yeah if you don't have the time and need a lot of work done then yeah sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and fork over the cash and let a mechanic do it, especially if its your daily ride. My s15 isn't a daily so I guess that does give me more time to do stuff coz I can just jump in my other car when its off the road.

 

This guy... come work on my car bro.

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You don't need a lot of tools. A 10mm socket pretty much undoes every important bolt on a silvia. But yeah if you don't have the time and need a lot of work done then yeah sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and fork over the cash and let a mechanic do it, especially if its your daily ride. My s15 isn't a daily so I guess that does give me more time to do stuff coz I can just jump in my other car when its off the road.

 

10mm socket wont even do a basic service... unless you are talking about a socket set... LMAO

 

but a 14mm spanner will do a basic service, can even tighten a fan belt i think (on my rb it can), assuming ure spark plugs dont need to be changed

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You don't need a lot of tools. A 10mm socket pretty much undoes every important bolt on a silvia. But yeah if you don't have the time and need a lot of work done then yeah sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and fork over the cash and let a mechanic do it, especially if its your daily ride. My s15 isn't a daily so I guess that does give me more time to do stuff coz I can just jump in my other car when its off the road.

 

10mm socket wont even do a basic service... unless you are talking about a socket set... LMAO

 

Well obviously you need a lot more tools than just a 10mm socket but I find that one comes up a lot when when working on my s15 :)

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