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D_Stirls

My Burgandy CA 180sx

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Hello All,

I have been a member here for a few years and have never got around to doing a write up on the build of my 180sx, I will cut and paste sections out of various thread that i have posted about my car.

 

NOTE!! it will take a few days to get the thread in order.

 

Here's where it is at the moment, some parts fitted some not;

 

Mod List:

-Bigger Turbo (GT2871r 52T 0.64A/R)

-Bigger injectors (SARD 660cc)

-CA18 Exhaust Cam Fitted to Intake

-Custom Adjustable Cam Gears

-Custom Billet CAS Bracket

-Custom SS Timing Belt Backing Plate

-Bigger Air Flow Meter (RB25 Series II)

-Remapped ECU (Speedlab Remap)

-Electronic Boost Controller (Blitz DSBC)

-After Market fuel pump (Genuine Walbro)

-Front Mount Intercooler

-Custom Stainless-Steel Intercooler piping

-Custom 3inch Exhaust with CES Front Pipe and Jun BL Cannon, Empty Cat Box.

-Custom Stainless Steel intake

-Custom Breather Kit

-Custom Semi-Solid Engine Mounts

-Polished/Detailed Engine Bay

-Ceramic Button Clutch (ACS Extreme Clutch)

-Volk Racing GT-P rims (17-8/9.5 +3?)

-20mm Spacers on the front rears to come soon.

-JIC Camber Tops

-After Market Struts (Tomei)

-After Market Front Tension Rods

-Solid Sub frame Bushes

-Shimmed Diff (1.30+0.8mm)

-Upgraded Anti Roll Bars (Front and Rear)

-MOMO steering wheel

-3 x Electronic Gauges (Stri DSD CS Black Face)

(Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp)

-HKS Boost Gauge

-Battery relocated to the "boot"

-R32GTR/R33GTS-t brake upgrade on front. (Redrilled to 4 stud)

-Slotted Rotors

-Braided Brake Lines

-RB20 Radiator + 14” thermo fan (Soon to be BA fan Set-up)

-Alloy Radiator Overflow (BTR Fabrication)

-Oil Cooler & Custom Billet Filter Relocation Kit

-Cold Air Box (in the making)

-SR Seats Fitted

 

The car was making 165rwkw but should have been making around 180kw but due to a few problems on the dyno; namely a faulty CAS and a bleed valve that wouldn't hold the boost through to the red line it fell a bit short.

This figure (165kw) was acheived with the old setup which was;

GT28R turbo, no cam mods, Bleed valve instead of DSBC and smaller injectors (444cc) .

The CAS was playing up at 5000 RPM and the timing began to retard itself that is what the wiggle is in the power curve @ around 140km/h (the Graph is at the bottom of this post). Jeff didn't want to add more timing because if the CAS problem fixed itself and added more timing in it would have been By By to the engine.

 

The car is pieces (again) at this stage as I am still fitting the GT2871R, Bigger Injectors, Cam and Cam Gears, as well as the oil cooler/relocation kit and hasn't been tuned obviously. I'll be looking at somewhere between 210-230 @1.2>1.3 BAR when it is finally tuned. It won't see this boost on the street but will be interesting to see what it makes on the dyno.

All of the work has been done by myself with my brother doing the machining with the billet products and with the exception of Jeff (Speedlab) no one has touched my car since i bought it.

 

180frontn.jpg

 

180sx.jpg

 

Image626.jpg

 

Image624.jpg

 

Engine Bay When I First Bought It

 

180sx11.jpg

 

EB Now

Image627.jpg

 

DSCN0069.jpg

 

Engine Mounts;

 

Image493.jpg

 

Image494.jpg

 

Trial fit of new turbo;

 

Image499.jpg

 

Image501.jpg

 

The Brakes;

 

Brakes3.jpg

 

Brakes1.jpg

 

New Slots Design;

 

Image359.jpgImage355.jpg

 

 

The Graph With Smaller T28 Turbo

 

WeirdDynoGraph.jpg

 

The Blue line is early on where the problem is quite pronounced

The Red line is nearly at the final tune, This is where Jeff wouldn't go any further with the timing due to the CAS

The Green line is where some one is playing funny buggers with the actuator rod

 

EDIT!!

It wasn't a problem with the CAS it was a problem with the earthing loop that is earthed to the plenum, and was my own stupid fault for earthing both earths to the same point.

 

Uploaded picture for thread title:

Image867.jpg

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nice car! where did you make/get that pod box (heat protector) from? im looking to cool down the engine bay temp a lil but dont want to spend $300+ buying a premade airbox!

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I'm still in the process of making it. The aluminum i got from paramount browns but Caprol (formally Smart aluminum) are cheaper so i'll get it from them in the future. the frame work that is pictured i'm going to get rid of and change the new one slightly. i was going to cut it up but if you want it i'll keep it.

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Looks very tidy, engine bay especially :yes:

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Well i had a little trouble when i fitted the exhaust manifold. The previous owner had cross threaded the rear most exhaust stud, when i had the engine out i put a tap through it to clean it up and i though it looked good enough to not to have to worry about putting a heli-coil in it. Well i was wrong; when i was torquing up the rear exhaust nut, just before i got to the correct torque, the torque wrench went soft and the tread was completely stuffed (this was friday afternoon).

So i called Captain Thread (0407077414) this morning and he came out in the arvo to have a look and see what he could do. In 20 minutes he had fitted 2 heli-coils (there was another exhaust thread that was a bit sus) and removed a stripped nut from the drivers side engine mount that was doing my head in, all for a bit over $100.

So now i have fitted the turbo for good as well as both the engine mounts and trial fitted the piping to see what mod's need to be done to get it to fit to the new turbo .

 

Image545.jpg

 

Image546.jpg

 

Image547.jpg

 

Things still left to do before the All Jap Day show on the 27th April;

 

-Modify the intercooler piping to match the 2871. (Needs to be redone again as they stuffed up and regular bend it instead of mandrel bending it, but it'll do for the time being)

-Finish making the bracket that replaces the oil filter bracket and fit it along the the remote filter bracket.

-Make up brackets to fit the Oil Cooler and fit it.

-Finish making the Adjustable cam gears and fit them.

-Fit the exhaust cam in the intake side.

-Fit the 660cc injectors.

-Fit the DSBC and remove the bleed valve.

-Get it tuned.

-Change the bracket holding the radiator, as well as the intercooler brackets.

-Clean up the wiring for the gauges in the engine bay.

-Change the CA seats over to the SR ones.

 

Things that will be done if i get a chance

 

-Drop the rear cradle shim the diff and fit the sub-frame spacers

-Fit the adjust able toe and traction arms to the cradle

-Get the paint touched up and fit the 25mm guards i've had for the last 2.5 years

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Just finished making the adjustable cam gears, backing plate and the CAS bracket (all trial fitted tonight hence some missing bolts in the gears).

So now have to finish the oil cooler (still waiting on the cooler hose and fitting that were supposed to take 3 days and it well over a week now)rewire the senders for the gauges and then bolt everything back up and she will be a runner; "hopefully". The car supposed to be going on the dyno on Thursdays to be tuned so if every thing goes to plan she will be drivable by the weekend.

 

Pic's;

 

Image592.jpg

 

Image597.jpg

 

Image598.jpg

 

Image602.jpg

 

Image600.jpg

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yeah we will be selling them once they have been tested (should be on the dyno by the end of this week). There are some changes that need to be made to help with the fitting of the lines; it was a pain in the ass last night when i was trying to fit them. Basically we will be putting a 90 degree fitting on the top rather than the nipple then a 90 degree push on fitting, as it wasn't clearing the water line that previously went to the heat exchanger. This will also make it cheaper for you to get lines made up because the 90 degree push on fittings are $40 as opposed to $10 for a straight one. There wouldn't be a problem with the current design if you have a CA the was originally a manual as they don't have this heat exchanger line at all.

The other thing that might hold things up is that Matt's computer that controls the machine centre died and took 100's of his designs with it (which he hadn't backed up), it's at a computer place now and they are trying to get the info off the hard drive.

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Saw this on the weekend. VERY TUFF looking CA!

 

I know a lot of people (including old people that know nothing about cars :lol: ), were very impressed about the quality and workmanship in the engine bay.

:thumbsup:

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A quick 20 minute tune when the 660cc injectors were fitted netted 185kw @13psi with no timing added and the cam timing hasn't been touched either. A good sign of things to come, the car will be going back on the dyno in a few weeks time to have a full tune and chase the big numbers.

 

CA18detGT2871RSml.jpg

 

Some pictures from All Jap Day. Yes it made it.....Just; the show was on Sunday and the Quick tune was done @ 6pm Saturday night.

 

Image624.jpg

 

Image626.jpg

 

Image628.jpg

 

DSCN0069.jpg

 

And some of the Billet Coil Pack Cover;

 

Image627.jpg

 

Image618.jpg

 

Image620.jpg

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I really admire the amount of work done to this CA

 

Top work, awesome CA18 =)

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Go the CA's lol, always had a soft spot for them, good to see your not jumping on the SR/RB/1J band wagon :) Cant get over how mint that engine bay is though (before mods and now after mods), you must be pretty talented to make up those cam gears, attention to detail too :thumbsup:

How much power are you aiming for? 230, 240RWKW? You looking to drift it or just have a fun and clean cruiser?

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looks nice. sweet looking engine bay detail is awesome

how far away are you from doing everything you wanted to do?

much more stuff you wanna do ?

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Go the CA's lol, always had a soft spot for them, good to see your not jumping on the SR/RB/1J band wagon. Cant get over how mint that engine bay is though (before mods and now after mods), you must be pretty talented to make up those cam gears, attention to detail too.

How much power are you aiming for? 230, 240RWKW? You looking to drift it or just have a fun and clean cruiser?

 

It'll make over 220 but don't know how much over. If i was going for outright power it would easily crack the 230 mark but i might keep the peak power down a bit and set the cam gears up for more midrange.

As for the use of the car I'll be doing a few track days, hill climbs and motorkhana's as well as a bit of drifting but yes i was mainly building a clean streeter.

I'll drive it for 12-18 months and then it'll go on the market and I'll either do a RB26>180sx conversion or I'll build up a GTR, I'm not sure which yet.

The engine bay wasn't that clean when i got it, those pictures were taken 2 years before i bought the car but yes it was still cleaner than most of the standard CA's I've seen out there.

As for not jumping on the 1JZ bandwagon, this is our 1JZ toy;

 

Building a 1JZ dirt circuit open wheeler

 

much more stuff you wanna do ?

I'll just be doing some more cleaning up around the place, things like hiding some of the wiring and finishing the air box as well as a heat shield for around the exhaust.

I've got some body work to do as well like knocking out some little dents and fitting the side skirts and vented front guards i have and some Type X rear pods. I might also fit a SR front bar and lip extension if i don;t get the GP sports front bar that I've been waiting months for.

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don't put an sr front bar leave the ca bar on the just lower the rear a bit... also take the black line off makes it look alot smoother

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I'm running late for work so i can't go into details yet (will do i write up of the dyno session when i get home. Had a few problems needless to say)

But it made 213 @ 15psi.

We haven't finished yet but had a problem with the dyno. When that's fixed i'll put it back on and tune Jeff will tune it for 18psi when i can get it back on.

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good read, awesome build up.

 

quality of all the parts looks so good, if i had a ca, thats how i would want it!

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Man gotta respect u for how much time, money & effort that goes into this.

Well done dude.

Looks a treat!!

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I'm running late for work so i can't go into details yet (will do I write up of the dyno session when i get home. Had a few problems needless to say)

But it made 213 @ 15psi.

We haven't finished yet but had a problem with the dyno. When that's fixed I'll put it back on and tune Jeff will tune it for 18psi when I can get it back on.

Ok so on Friday the car went on the dyno. The car (as you have read above) had previously had a quick basic tune when the injectors were fitted and that netted 185kw @ 13psi. So we (Jeff and Me) put the car on and strap it down and plug in the computer to tune it. Run it up the first time and the boost curve looks perfect all the way through to where the peak power is made and then it just drops the boost right out (drops to 10 psi). I had a suspicion that the actuator rod was touching the edge of can as the actuator was opening, so we pull the car off put it over a pit and take it off. Sure enough there were rub marks on the threaded section where it had been rubbing. So I bent to rod slightly and it looked to have fixed it.

 

So we put it back on the dyno and run it up and it's doing the same thing, you can actually see the rod make a big movement in the top end. Pull it back off put it back over the pit and blow air through the actuator and line but it wasn't anywhere near rubbing, so the we move onto the next thing that could be causing it, the Blitz DSBC boost controller. Luckily one of the work shops cars had a the same boost controller so we pulled out the control unit and put it in my car. We ran it up and the boost problem was gone, so that solves that problem; my boost controller is screwed. The power was down 20kw on that run though so we start looking around for what was wrong, but it was pretty simple in the end as the car was strapped down to tight.

At this point it 3pm and the car first went on the dyno at 9am. I had to leave for work in an hour and a half so we quickly set up the cam gears, which was really easy because of the CAS bracket and it saved us hours because we didn't have to remove timing cover every time we made a change. In 45 minutes we had them set up and we ended up getting 10kw more all the way through the rev range until the top end which curved off and ended up touching the power curve for the previous run, meaning there was no loss in peak power.

 

In setting up the cams the first thing we did was dial in the spec's of the CA18DE exhaust cam just to settle the argument about the differences between the cams. It made 10kw more all the way through the rev range until the last 1000rpm where it dropped off a bit but was only ~3kw less than the DET spec's. Then by playing with the exhaust cam timing we got that power back. I don;t have the graphs at the moment but when I go back down to the workshop I will get them to print some out

 

We then did a few runs with the cams set up before I had to leave and we ended getting 196.9kw @ 13.5 psi. Which was pretty good considering that we had 185kw on the quick tune, so by playing with cams and Jeff's tuning with .5psi more we made 11.9kw more.

Jeff didn't do any more with my car after I left and on Saturday morning we put it back on and had another go. I wanted to run 18 psi just to see what it would make, as it's still a standard bottom end I won't be running that boost on the street. So we started winding more boost into it and when we got to 15psi the dyno developed a problem so that's as far as we got at this stage and as I said above we made 213.3kw.

So once the dyno is fixed and i have bought another boost controller we will put it back on and run it up to 18psi. Also you will notice in the 185kw graph above that there is a dip in the power just as the boost is rising, that is caused by the secondary butterflies opening (they are opening at 3700rpm like they are supposed to) so Jeff is going to write a program to be able to tune the shift point and we will move it further up the rev range.

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Hey mate hows your car going... did you end up running 18psi? what power figure to ya get... Best CA ever IMO!!!

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so Jeff is going to write I program to be able to tune the shift point and we will move it further up the rev range.

 

keeping them closed longer!!! thats just madness... :P

 

 

 

Next time you see Jeff, tell him Ive got some things to show him

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so Jeff is going to write I program to be able to tune the shift point and we will move it further up the rev range.

 

keeping them closed longer!!! thats just madness... :P

 

 

 

Next time you see Jeff, tell him Ive got some things to show him

 

Literally Just got back from the dyno and we kept them closed longer and it fixed the hole. I'll post up the graphs tomorrow.

 

I'm going to start a thread tomorrow about cam timing as we tried a few different settings and I have to graphs to show the results. Basically it's confirming what you have been saying to people the whole time but now you will have the graphs as proof.

 

Running late for work so don't have time to post them up now.

 

Hey mate hows your car going... did you end up running 18psi? what power figure to ya get... Best CA ever IMO!!!

 

I need a stronger actuator, anything above 15psi was just dropping back towards 15 psi in the top end. It's only a 9 psi actuator so I will go for a 13 or 15 psi one and we'll get it up there for sure.

The results today were about the same 215.8rwkw from 16psi. (dyno was recalibrated since the last dyno session)

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great build up man ca power ftw :lol: nice engine bay also.

 

seen in one your other post you will be going a rb26 into a 180 or a gtr in the future good luck with that and keep up the good work :thumbsup:

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So here are all the graphs from the dyno sessions;

The one two weeks ago before the dyno died;

 

As you can see the curve changed it's profile between the 13.5 psi run and the 15 psi one no other changes were made none that would account for that bigger change, and then the dyno stopped working so that was it for the day.

CA18DETGT2871R21-6-08M.jpg

 

After the dyno had been fixed and recalibrated;

As you can see I need a bigger actuator, there's not enough pressure on the gate. After this run was done we played around the the butterflies timing and fixed the whole in the bottom end. Because the bigger turbo doesn't produce as much boost as the smaller turbo in the lower RPM, the butterflies need to stay closed for longer the keep the inlet velocity up.

 

CA18DETGT2871R05-07-0816psiM.jpg

 

I didn't get a graph with the hole fixed but it was done on a lower boost setting anyway. When I go back to the dyno with the bigger actuator I will get a copy.

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These are some graphs that were interesting

 

The graph of my car with a T28BB (Actually a GT2560R, though they are both the same) Vs' GT2871R

 

CA18detT28VsGT2871RM.jpg

 

As you can see the T28 produce boost a lot earlier but because of the extra flow of the GT2871R at a lower boost the GT2871 wasn't far behind. and this was before we fixed the butterfly hole once that was done there was

 

This graph is of the difference that cam timing makes, there more on this in another topic I started CA18 Cam timing thread

 

CamAdjustmentsCA18detGT2871RBoostM.jpg

The red line is the base line.

The dark blue line is with inlet cam 5 degrees advanced.

And the light blue line is with the previous inlet adjustment with the addition of the exhaust cam being 2 degrees retarded.

 

 

Link to the thread about the cam timing.

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So so so close to my 220rwkw's mate!!!

 

you will get it soon haha..

 

good work mate... crazy CA!!

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