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Found 242 results

  1. aircon stuck on hot air

    I got my aircon gassed recently but for some reason with the AC button on its spewing out hot air like you wouldnt believe. Someone told me it could be a controller unit behind the AC unit. anyone had this problem or know what i can try to fix it?
  2. I recently decided I wanted to modify my bonnet on my 180. The reason was two-fold, cooling and a unique look. I just cant decide whether to go for a scoop (something similar to a wrx look) or a vent. Heres the vent: Heres the scoop: Only issue I can think of is if i do a botched job my bonnet would be ruined. But is there any other unforeseen problems or road worthy issues i havnt thought of? Cheers
  3. Intro Hi friends, Bought my car recently and really like the idea of keeping a journal-type thing so feel free to ignore this thread as it's more of a personal scrapbook thread of my car and the learning curve which I'm undertaking, rather than a build thread. When I bought htis car, I had zero clue about engine and mechanics, literally the only thing I knew about was how to check the oil. But anyways; I've been driving a 2009 Hyundai Getz for a few years, it's the bottom of the line 1.4L manual but hell, I love the hills anyway and learnt to drive through the hills in it, generally to the surprise of other car owners who love the hills when I can pretty well keep up with a lot of the people I come across. Started driving in 2009 with my mates in their corollas and volvos and whatever the hell we had to drive. My best driving mate drives an AE82 and we used to just go up through the hills a few times a week - this helped me realise you really don't need power to go quick in the hills. So, present day, I was a few phone calls away from purchasing an '02 Renault Clio Sport.. was pretty much in the 'hot hatch' mindset of things, didn't even care that it looks like a humpback whale from the back. Then I started hanging out with an old mate again working on his S13 (which has been sitting in his garage for a bit over 2 years collecting dust) and, well, it pretty much reignited hopes and dreams blah blah that I had when I was like 15 so a few days later we saw a 180sx for the right price on these forum classifieds and I thought "screw it" so for $3,800 off a dealer(?) I ended up with a running, automatic 1991 SR20DET 180sx that was in some serious need of some TLC. The Car 158,xxx KM's SR20DET (running) Automatic Black, half the clear coat missing.. The day I looked at it it (10/12) The day I collected it (12/12) The guy seemed kind enough to throw in a set of stock rear struts as there was some reported knocking by one of the mechanics, later on we saw that the stock ones were pretty screwed and the bushes were basically gone but not to worry... Day 1 Solved problems: - engine fluids probably hadn't been changed in about 30,000 km - a wish list of stickers on the bonnet (apexi, greddy, hks etc etc...) Took her up to my mate's shed where the first thing he proceeded to do was get a razor blade and scratch off the big Need for Speed-style decal on the rear window that said "UNDRGRND KING". Pity, I really liked being an undrgrnd king. We did a few little things like changing the fluids (engine oil, coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs). It was unreal how much of a power/response increase doing this made. It was pretty clear by this point that whoever had owned the car last did not give a fuck about this car. He/she had tried to re-trim the interior and it was a delicious stained yellow vinyl colour with plenty of dirt on it. My mate ended up having a spare 180sx door lying outside in the sun so I scavenged the trim from it. It'd been weathered for probably 18 months but it was much of an improvement. Did general cleaning and other cosmetic stuff, ended up replacing the stock airbox for a mounted pod filter as well. Day 2 Solved problems: - no boost getting to the engine Car didn't start this morning.. my mate ended up spraying some carby cleaner inside the throttle body and she started to run.. then we switched off the ignition and the engine kept running, dieseling. How odd, right? Anyway, the turbo was boosting but not getting a feed through to the engine.. ended up quickly dropping past Adelaide Jap Imports and seeing if they would take a quick look at it (absolute champs) and they saw straight away that the wastegate circlip had come off. Went to the shed, fixed this, no more wasted boost! Day 3 Solved problems: - timing waaay out - rear struts knocking - chopped springs at the front, waaay too low - bare brake pads - Worn & missing sway bar bushes Swapped over the stupid struts on all fours that were on the car and replaced brake pads on the front (that had pretty much worn past their warning pins.....). Had issues that we'd noticed from Day 2 where the engine idle was around 1700 RPM and dropping up and down.. as in idling at 1700 then dropping to 1200 then back up to 1700. Went to pick up some new bushes for the front sway bars from Japanese Import Spares and got the owner to take a quick look as to why it was idling wrong.. he saw straight away that the bolt was in the wrong position so we manually adjusted it later that day and lo & behold, perfect 800~ RPM idling. Decided that we were going to try and smash out the auto-> manual conversion and overnight, so we christened the car with chinese beforehand. The donor for gearbox, clutch, pedals & everything else needed. Got to about 1:30am and we'd only taken out the pedals from a donor S14 write-off, drilled housings for the clutch and installed the S14 brake pedal in the 180sx so we decided to just call it a night since we were so overtired already and the weather was hot as. Day 4 Solved problems: - Car wouldn't start again, ended up managing to make it start by feathering the accelerator. By this point it seems that the car won't start when cold, but when warm it's fine - leads me to thinking it's something to do with either the coolant temp sensor or the ECU taking incorrect readings. We pulled up at the shed in preparation for a day's work on the car, sat down, lit a smoke and about 30 seconds later the coolant pipes burst, dumping all my beautiful new coolant onto the floor and sending a shitload of steam out of the engine bay for a solid few minutes. At least my bay is now steam cleaned right? Car is currently sitting in the shed, waiting on getting it towed to another mate's shed where we will finish the manual conversion, take a look at the coolant temp sensor and try and figure out why the hell it overheated to the point of unleashing my coolant pipes. Good news is it looks as though the pipes are the transmission lines so can just carry straight on with the manual conversion and not worry about reattaching the hoses. Current problems: - Not starting when cold - Coolant pipes just chilling somewhere down near the gearbox - Something wrong with either the coolant temp sensor, ECU readings, fan clutch or thermostat. Maybe all of them! Plans - Either get a decent paintjob or wrap the car with vinyl wrap... - R33 seats or something similar - Complete onevia/sileighty swap with my mate's s13 Much, much more to come.
  4. Hey there, I was wondering if anyone can shed some light with putting an S15 dash and gauge cluster into a 180sx. So far I know there is complications with getting the gauges working properly, any way to combat that, or is there nothing I can do to resolve it?
  5. I am exploring what front lip other options I have for the Chuki front 180sx. So far the only mainstream options are the Topstage lip, CA lip, that Xenon lip from the US (A big rip$$), any others? but being a fan of the old school styling i was thinking of something like these bad boys.. Which I think would look fairly decent done right with a matching bobtail wing. So I found these semi universal options here http://www.revheads.com.au/body_spoilers_front_other.html concentrating on more the 120Y-180B ones. So I guess my initial questions are, how hard would it to custom fit something like this, is plastic welding fairly difficult?
  6. Can anyone HELP?

    Long story short in need of a reliable trusted mechanic in the logan slacks creek area (Anywhere with 50ks of this area will do). Its a 180sx sr20 redtop, replacing with a sr20 blacktop (with fewer ks) also converting from auto to manual. Thanks Alex
  7. Hey guys, My name is Jess, Kinda new around here. Have been looking for my first car for ages now, went between commadores/ supra/ silvia/ supra again then back to silvia. My boyfriend helped me track down through one of his friends a gorgeous S13! OH, and if anyone has a SR20 N/A exhaust manifold im after one, inbox me or sms 0428992193 or 0403406052 please.kinda URGENT!! Blue and purple pearl. SR20 conversion with a new GT28R Coilovers If there are any cruises or anything down near canberra let me know, i live that way . PICCIES BELOW (my car and me on my boys Z)
  8. GKTECH Solid Aluminum steering shaft spacer @ $23 The GKTECH alloy steering shaft spacer will increase your steering response. The feedback that the stock steering rack provides to the driver can sometimes be a bit unpredictable, but with this product response is transferred all the time. A must for the serious driver, both street and track. - Direct replacement of the standard rubber bush Vehicle Compatibility: Nissan Silvia S13 Nissan 180sx Nissan Skyline R32 GTS & GTST Nissan Skyline R32 GTR FAQ's What's the advantage of a steering shaft spacer? The steering shaft spacer is a direct replacement of the standard rubber bush. As you can imagine, a rubber bush that big, can’t be good. The steering shaft spacer gives you a much more direct feel of the steering. Will this fit my car? Please refer to the confirmed vehicle list in the item description. We do not sell any items that aren’t listed on our website and if we haven’t confirmed fitment on your car, then we don’t know if it will fit or not. Please do not ask. How long does it take to install this steering shaft spacer? The steering shaft spacer will take around 1 hour to install with the engine in the car. If for some reason you don’t have the engine in the car, it will only take 5 minutes or so to install the spacer. Is this steering shaft spacer something I could install myself? Yes, it’s certainly not a difficult job to install the spacer, it’s just time consuming and you need some patience (and small hands) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ HOW TO ORDER: Click the link here and add the item to your cart: http://gktech.com.au...sp?id=niss-ssss cheers, Greg Kruse - GKTECH www.gktech.com.au
  9. GKTECH Stainless Steel Tie rod end spacers @ $12 These spacers slip on to the end of either standard or aftermarket tie rods and allow the tie rods to travel further into the steering rack which creates more steering lock. Generally providing around 15 degrees more steering angle. Great for drift or getting out of parking spots. - Easy DIY installation - CNC machined stainless steel Vehicle Compatibility: - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan S14 200SX - Nissan S15 200SX - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T (2WD) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (AWD) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T (2WD) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTR (AWD) - Nissan Skyline R34 GTT (2WD) - Nissan Skyline R34 GTR (AWD) - Nissan Cefiro A31 FAQ's What’s the advantage of tie rod end spacers? Tie rod end spacers give you more steering angle by allowing your tie rods to move further into your steering rack. Will this fit my car? Please refer to the confirmed vehicle list in the item description. We do not sell any items that aren’t listed on our website and if we haven’t confirmed fitment on your car, then we don’t know if it will fit or not. Please do not ask. How wide are these spacers? The tie rod end spacers are 6mm’s wide each. Are these spacers safe to use? We have sold tie rod end spacers for many years without any issues. That said, as with all of our products they are strictly sold for off road use only and are not intended for use on public roads. Is this price for a pair or just for 1 spacer? The price listed is for a pair of spacers, 1 spacer for the left of your steering rack, the other for the right. Where do these spacers go exactly? If you pull out your tie rod, slip on the spacer on the end that goes into the steering rack and then put the tie rod back into the steering rack. How much extra lock should I expect to see from these spacers? You should see around 15 degrees of extra steering lock which is quite significant. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ HOW TO ORDER: Click the link here and add the item to your cart: http://gktech.com.au...sp?id=NISS-TROD cheers, Greg Kruse - GKTECH www.gktech.com.au
  10. GKTECH Billet Aluminium Handbrake Drift Button @ $16 The GKTECH Billet Aluminum Handbrake Drift Button slips over the top of your standard handbrake button and eliminates the need to press the button in order to use the handbrake lever. The drift button also provides a larger surface area for more precise use while drifting. Made in Australia of high quality billet aluminum. - Available in either Silver or Black. - Fits S13 Silvia, 180sx and R32 Skylines - For Race use only. FAQ's What does this drift button actually do? There is a spring in your handbrake which keeps your handbrake button from staying in. When drifting and using the handbrake you wouldn’t want the handbrake button to pop back out so if you remove the spring. You install the drift button so that you can then pull the button when you need to keep your handbrake in the locked position. How do I install this drift button? Very easily, please refer to our installation guide. Will this drift button fit my car? Please refer to the confirmed vehicle list in the item description. We do not sell any items that aren’t listed on our website and if we haven’t confirmed fitment on your car, then we don’t know if it will fit or not. Please do not ask. Will I be able to drift like Luke Fink once I install this drift button? Probably not, that guy is a freak! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ HOW TO ORDER: Click the link here and add the item to your cart: Black drift buttons = http://gktech.com.au...sp?id=S13X-DBBK Silver drift buttons = http://gktech.com.au...sp?id=S13X-DBSL cheers, Greg Kruse - GKTECH www.gktech.com.au
  11. GKTECH Stainless steel 7 layer SR20 exhaust manifold gaskets @ $26 This multi layer stainless steel exhaust manifold gasket is a direct replacement of the standard unit and is an upgrade from your general carbon composite manifold gaskets which are prone to blowing out. - Race tested and a proven performer - Replacement for Nissan part 14036-75F00 - Fits all SR20 applications $26 introductory price - HUNDREDS IN STOCK NOW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ HOW TO ORDER: Click the link here and add the item to your cart: http://www.gktech.co...uctID=SR20-gskt cheers, Greg Kruse - GKTECH www.gktech.com.au
  12. hello all, I bagged me a 180sx about a week ago, it's in pretty decent nick so I'm pretty happy with it so far, It's a 1996 180sx, pretty basic as you can tell from the pics, it does have both front and rear strut bars, and tein coilovers, 3 inch exhaust, aside from that and an upgraded fuel system, it's stock as f*ck, the speakers are old as a mofo, and I'm stuck listening to SR drone, with only a hint of busta rhymes(the only cd I could be f*cked chucking in on the day, don't want to chuck in skrillex because I'll blow the speakers even further) playing in the background. Future plans are: some clean rims with a decentish offset, I want to restore the interior/get rid of some of the 1990's Jap blandness that plagues most pre 2005 imports and a possible sil80 conversion. For the time being I'm only looking to add 20-30 KW(could increase exponentially, as my life whittles away, and my car consumes all), a t28 bb, I'm after more response, rather than outright power. Possible forging of internals in the unforseeable future if I manage to blow the SR like I did my first car (Unlikely though, even my fiancee says I drive like a bitch), as we're in the process of building a house,I'm in uni, and I work full time as well(I feel like occupying a local park and complaining about it haha), I warn you, THIS BUILD MAY BE AS SLOW AS KEVIN MALONE OFF THE OFFICE... Here are some pics,
  13. i posted this here http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=513344 earlier today, although i'm not sure if it belongs there correctly, or here for the best answers, sorry for the double post, if it's in the wrong spot i would appreciate the post be moved to a place where it will receive the aid that i need for it. however as it says, if you wish for me to circle some things in images, i can do so.
  14. so i was wondering how this sounds as a plan, i know the top bar between the headlights on the chassi is fine for strength to be cut and have an aluminium mount between it to mount the radiator, but with the bar that goes along the bottom with the supports that go towards the suspension (not sure what they're called, can get pics), would it be alright to cut the bottom bar that they're bolted to, so i could mount the radiator on there, once again i can get pics and draw on it exactly where i mean, basicly so that i could raise my intercooler as the pipe on the drivers side is about an inch and a half from the ground due to having a larger radiator + there was damage on the passenger side, i have fully adjustable coilovers, i'm just trying to avoid raising the front end, since i don't have to worry about a defect, i just want it strong enough for track.
  15. Hey Guys and Girls, If you can or maybe know someone that might be able to help me out? I have an s13 I need to pass EPA and Ride Height defects, so if anyone has standard springs, or standard/quiet exhaust they don't mind lending me just to pass this, i would really appreciate it! I'm more than happy to pick up anywhere in sydney. I can leave some kind of security till i return the part if you prefer. PM me if you think you can help me out! Thanks Everyone!
  16. Hey all, after a starting point for a grip wheel alignment on my 180sx (track car) The following suspension mods have been done so far FRONT: Tein coilovers Tein Camber tops Tein Tension Rod REAR: Tein coilovers WL adjustable camber arms WL adjustable Castor arms non-HICAS sub-frame with cradle spacers running 17x9 225's Yes i know tyres shouldn't be stretched but not going to get a set of brand newies at $260 a pop after changing rims (will get some wider tyres after these are gone) And yes i did a search but could only find drift set-ups and very vauge figures missing various bits of information. Some WL adjustable sway bars are next on my list unless there is something that may be better? (along with some extra bracing)
  17. This is my build thread, car was originally a street used car as well until the tards at Transport put a stop to that.. 1992 Nissan 180sx, manual, with a blacktop type x sr20det MODS Engine GReddy Front mounted cooler Zorst (tomei style dump, front pipe, catback and flutes at rear) Rocker arm stoppers GT2871rs disco tato z32 afm 740cc nismo injectors Bosch 040 fuel pump Cams Tomei oil pan Drift? catch can Pod air filter and metal induction pipe Suspension Greddy coilovers front & rear with camber tops Front strut brace Steering rack spacers Adjustable caster bars JJR hardened tie rods JJR adjustable tie rod ends Drivetrain Standard 180 box Exedy brass button clutch Shimmed diff Electrics Apexi power fc n hand controller Greddy profec b II Ebc Boost gauge Alarm & immobilizer ^.^ Exterior ca pig nose front bar S14a jdm front bar s13.4 conversion guards s14a bonnet s14a headlights/corner lights standard rear bar lowered black respray Custom airbrushing, base coat res various mandatory stickers for the tas drift competition F1 mirrors Topstage roof wing Origin duckwing Aero plastic skirts Vertex skirts Greddy grace genuine plastic front lip Origin style 25-30mm rear wide guards Interior Type x interior Greddy gear shift GKTech deep dish steering wheel Future mods S14a front (have bonnet, headlights, corner lights) on Respray Undisclosed rims 17x9 +12 fronts 17x9.5 0 rears aswell as 15x8.5 -8 and 15x10 -40 longchamps Velo seat Origin type duckwing spoiler Rear lip to be fitted Factory skirts GReddy gracer front lip CAMs approved roll cage Tuned by Andy @ Pro Automotive! Let me just say was a pleasure to go there, was patient and did a good thorough job and very friendly! Powerssss 195rwkws @ 13.56psi 222.1rwkws @ 17psi Can chuck up dyno sheets later on. I got the car about 18 months ago, bought it off ebay ^.^ he looked heaps different when I first got it (actually tidy minus the fitment disaster wheels). Anywho just to bring this thread up to speed is a few things Ive done since owning it. A few pics below of what Ive done, will try keep it brief. This is what it looked like when I first got it... Not styled to my liking but got it for a great price and it was what I was after (s13/180). First thing I did was pull the decals off the side. Got hold of a set of drifteks (Black, multistud 17x9.5 +18 front & rear, wrapped in federal 595s 235/45/17s) and threw on various stickers for the track to keep CAMs happy. Entered my first drift practise day (Dec 09') and came away with a rubber water hose at the rear of the engine being cut through by those terribad worm drive hose clamps and a touch up on the front passenger side headlight after smacking into the tyre wall at the bottom of the S's at the track. Other than than no majors and car ran well I entered last years state drift series purely for the fact to get as much track time as I can to improve myself. Practise practise practise! To get the car re-rego'd (as bought the car from another state) I had to pull off the kit and put the 18s back on the car and raise it up, all the boring things no one wants to do to their car. So it all came off and I got hold of standard rear bar and a ca front bar, chucked them on and sprayed them in primer, looks pretty ratty but better than bright red/maroon imo. Used 400grit sandpaper and primer in a prssure pack XD loves it. I have since relowered the car and ran some drift days with the drifteks on it, I had to put a 5mm spacer on the front as the wheels kept smashing into the coilover on hard lock at the track, they also munched into my main wiring loom running along the driver side, which when it did it I was on the track and the headlights kept popping up when I entered a corner lol and the horn earthed out and I had to drive the rest of the way around the track an in the pits with the horn going off, kinda embarrassing As you can see from the last pic the loom now sits on the lip/seam rather than under it, completely removing any possibility of some tyre on wire action. Ran out of time for a bash plate so the last track day (few weeks back) I did terrible all day with a combination of shitting myself about smashing my new sump on the ripple strip (which sits a good deal lower than the stock one) and poor quality tyres spinning me off the track, wasnt a good day in regards as far as progression was concerned. Also in one of my battles my brakes line split and put the car out of more battles :/ From the day though I have taken a new found appreciation for good quality tires, the combination of power, speed and bad tires has been learnt. Here is a few pics I have seen of me on track, the car atm is in dire need of presentation, especially considering how many of the other cars down here have really stepped it up on vehicle presentation, the turbo shat itself a few weeks back so hence buying the gt2871rs so the new s14 front was put on hold for a bit. Hopefully guards will be ordered soon.